Make your punchneedle embroidery more enjoyable - get the fabric tight!
When embroidering with punchneedles it is very important to have the fabric stretched as taut as possible in a hoop. When the fabric is drum-tight and the thumb screw on the hoop is done up as tightly as possible, the weave of the fabric is opened up and this allows the punchneedle to find its way easily between the fibres.
The smaller the hoop, the tighter the fabric can be pulled without too much effort. When a larger hoop is used it will require a bit more effort to get the fabric really tight. Punchneedle embroidery is also more enjoyable when the fabric is tight in the hoop as the needle-tip finds its way easily between the fibres of the fabric. The loops stay in place, progress is made and everything works beautifully. Working with fabric which is not pulled taut means that it is more difficult to punch the needle through the fabric. As well, a great deal of stress is placed on your wrist which can prove painful over time but most importantly the loops do not readily stay in place, and this causes one to wonder if there is something wrong with the punchneedle. Get the fabric taut and the hoop thumb screw done up tight and punchneedles work like a dream!
There are many types of embroidery hoops available but few will hold the fabric tight enough. The ideal hoop to use for punchneedle embroidery is a plastic lip-lock hoop. This hoop has an inner ring with a lip, and an outer ring with a thumb screw for tightening. When the lip on the inner hoop is positioned up and over the outer ring and the screw is done up tightly, the fabric is held secure and very taut (drum tight) which is the optimum for punchneedle embroidery.
Be aware that it is possible to have the screw done up very tightly and the fabric not taut enough in the hoop. The fabric in the hoop needs to be progressively pulled taut while the screw is being tightened to get it evenly tight.
Assembling the fabric into the hoop
The most important preparation for punch needle embroidery is to have the fabric taut in the hoop and the nut of the hoop done up very tight. This opens the weave of the fabric and holds the fabric “drum taut” during embroidery thus enabling the needle-tip to pass through the weave of the fabric. This in turn allows each loop of embroidery to be formed and avoids the fabric being damaged.
Follow the steps below to get the fabric really taut:
1. Place the fabric in the hoop with the printed design facing uppermost.
2. Once the fabric and inner ring of the hoop is ‘lip-locked' over the outer ring, turn the hoop and fabric over and place it design-side down on a table.
3. Using fingers and thumbs of both hands work your way evenly around the hoop pulling the fabric tight in a “lift up and pull in ” motion.
4. Turn the hoop over and tighten the hoop nut a few turns.
5. Turn the hoop and fabric face down again and repeat step 2, and then tighten the nut again.
6. Repeat this process two or three more times until the fabric is evenly “drum taut” and the nut is done-up as tightly as is possible.
Types of fabric and different needle sizes
When working on a fine fabric and with a very fine punchneedle it is not as necessary to have the fabric so tight. This changes dramatically when embroidering with a larger sized needle tip on thicker fabric. When the fabric is not held tight, loops do not easily stay in place, the fabric can be damaged and the loops formed are often uneven
Placing a bead on the hoop
To avoid the hoop nut from being tightened beyond the thread it can be a help to put on a pony bead as shown. This also helps in the tightening process. Simply, remove the hoop nut, place a plastic pony bead on the thread and then replace the hoop nut and tighten it. See the orange pony bead on the hoop in the photograph.
Lip-lock hoops
Lip-lock hoops are available in a variety of sizes.
Sometimes a hoop can become mishapen during the tightening process. This seemingly does not affect the embroidery. Upon completion of the piece, remove the fabric and either place the hoop in warm water or outside in the warm sunshine and when warm, manipulate the hoop back into a circle shape.
Another handy hint
If great difficulty is being experienced in getting the fabric very taut in the hoop, do as much as possible and then place the assembled hoop and fabric over a pudding basin, dessert bowl or someting similar, which will fit inside the hoop. As the work is being pushed down over the bowl and the pressure from the bowl pushes up, added tension is given to the fabric. Be aware though not to punch the needle into the sides of the bowl as this may damage the tip of the needle.
The Perfect Hoop Nut
A brass screw/nut called the Perfect Hoop Nut is available to replace the existing thumb screw on lip-lock hoops. The Perfect Hoop Nut can be tightened for the last few difficult turns by using a coin or a small screw driver.
May your needles dance forever and enjoy the dance!
